A journey to remember (bikepacking to Hampi) by Kundan Sen

Friends, A few months ago, when I was in Germany I went on many cycle rides, including transporting the bike on Munich Metro and Regional Trains. It’s a bike-friendly place where dedicated space for bikes is designed on these transportation media, though, bikes are not allowed in Bus or Tram or Long Distance Train services. Having this experience in mind, I wanted to explore what we can do here in India. So I decided to try out a short Bikepacking trip to Hampi.

Why Hampi? 

The first reason for choosing Hampi for Bikepacking is that its optimal distance from Bengaluru city. It’s at an overnight bus/train travel distance with KSRTC and private bus operators. The second reason is I always wished to visit Hampi as a tourist.

My original thought was to go to Goa by train from Hampi for Bikepacking but I decided against it to get a feel of the process of bike transportation. I hope to do a Goa trip via the West Coast in the near future.

Bengaluru to Hampi by Bus:

I booked Bengaluru to Hampi by KSRTC AC Sleeper on the 27th of September 2022 without a return ticket, and I will shortly explain why. Upon booking, I called KSRTC Helpline for booking bike space for the same trip and was asked to call the Phone Number of the office at Majestic Bus Terminus.  I spoke with the conductor about carrying the bike on the given number and I was elated to hear that it can be done without any hassle.

Unfortunately on the day of this Bikepacking journey, I received information that the Bus Trip has been cancelled and they are refunding the money. Great! Now what? As you can not beat the determination of a cyclist so I immediately booked a berth on a Non-AC Sleeper for the same day. Then I called the Majestic office again to ensure that the bike will go without any hitch. They asked me to contact Shanti Nagar Depot and gave me the number. I called them and they gave me the number of Majestic and asked me to contact them. When I told them that I got their number from Majestic Office, they asked me to call back after five minutes. I did and they told me that I can carry a bike and it will cost Rs.200/. With that information, I arrived at Majestic Bus Terminus a couple of hours early. 

on the day of this Bikepacking journey, the bus was ready well in advance and I met the conductor. He said that there is no space to carry a bike on the bus. He showed me the luggage space. It was totally inadequate; not enough for just the frame without the wheels. It was too small even for a folding bike. After some discussion between the conductor and the driver, I was told that I have to buy a ticket for another Berth. I was a little shocked. Some pleading and discussion went on. Finally, I was told that I have to pay Rs.140/- for three units (whatever that was) of luggage. I happily agreed. The bike was loaded onto the narrow passage, right at the rear end. I was asked to occupy the berth next to the bike. It was crammed; hardly any space for the panniers, the backpack and my whole body altogether. However, I somehow managed to fit everything and went in to deep sleep soon after the bus started at 22:59 and woke up at about 3 am when there was a roadside pee halt. We arrived at Hampi early in the morning, safe and refreshed. Progress during the last few kilometres was slow as there were lots of bullock karts carrying sugar cane.

Hampi to Bengaluru by Train:

I wanted to explore staying at the Retiring Room at the Railway Station, with the bike. If this was possible, it would remove a lot of logistics issues by making the Railway Station as the Base for going around. I found that Hospet has the facility, but it was not possible to book it online. So, I planned to buy the return ticket by train at Hospet only after ensuring that

(a) I can book the bike on the same train without the hassle and

(b) I can book the Retiring Room. After I had explored Hampi for a few hours, I rode to Hospet Railway Station, about 12 km away. I booked the return ticket for the 30th of September by Hampi Express leaving at 21:10. I went to the Parcel Office to discuss about the bike. I was advised to come (a) with a photocopy of my ID, (b) before 5 pm and (c) pack the Seat so that they can write the Booking Number. The Parcel Office works from 10 am to 5 pm. I was happy and totally forgot to check about Retiring Room. I went back to Hampi and took a Cheap Room in a nearby village. On the day of return, I left Hampi early as it was raining off and on and I didn’t want to get stuck at Hampi with the heavy rain that was projected. I reached Hospet Railway Station, found that Retiring Rooms are full, went to the AC Waiting Room, parked the bike right outside and relaxed a little. Someone came and advised me to remove the bike as an inspection was expected and bikes are not allowed on the platform. I decided to move out and visit Tungabhadra Dam (TB Dam) which was nearby. I wanted to leave the panniers in the Railway Storage Room. They only accept luggage that is locked. My panniers don’t have a facility for locking. So, I put them back on the bike and rode to the TB Dam. 

After my return, I booked the bike at the Parcel Office and took a rest in the AC Waiting Room. I went back to the Parcel Office before the train arrived and went along with them when they took the bike for loading. The rest of the journey was like the usual train journey in 3AC.  On arrival at KSR Bangalore, I went to the luggage compartment and by then the bike was already unloaded onto the platform. I was told that I need to go to the Parcel Office for Gate Pass to get the bike released. Apparently, that office was way beyond the other end of the station. I just wanted the bike. It was a gloomy morning, still drizzling, I was tired, close to home and all I wanted was to get the bike and ride home. I was Not Interested in carrying my luggage that kilometre to the Parcel Office. He was a little reluctant at first but ultimately gave me the bike and said that this early no one will stop me. That means that at other times, the Gate Pass can become important. So that has to be part of the plan. I do not know if the working hours of the Parcel Office everywhere is 10 am to 5 pm. If that is so, I had to wait for 4-5 hours just to get the Gate Pass. Luckily no one stopped me on the way out and I, feeling a little like a bike thief, came out of the Railway property without any further event.

Packing for the journey:

Clothing, water, snacks and tools are the most common items to carry on a bike trip. But this trip was a little different. It had some short-distance cycling, holiday sightseeing, and travel by AC or Non-AC bus (no bedding provided) & train (no bedding in non-AC). So, I had two sets of cycling clothes, two sets of sightseeing clothes, one set of rain gear, one set of the light warm router (I have a tendency to catch a cold), a bed sheet, a light blanket, a baseball hat and an extra pair of thick socks.

I purchased a pair of trekking sandals from Decathlon that is not affected by water and has a very good grip for the pedals as well. I could use just this one pair for all my needs. I generally avoid cooked food from outside on solo trips. Normally I have fruits and salads. So I had a plate, a bowl, a knife, a spoon, a small thermos and a coffee mug along with a bike water bottle and another 1-litre bottle. For snacks, I carried roasted peanuts, roasted Bengal Grams, walnut, flax seed powder (I take this every day to keep my internals clear) and sugar, all in light & small containers, and instant coffee powder in sachets. Food is generally fruits and salads. I get the raw items and prepare the meals myself. 

I took extra front and rear lights, two power banks, chargers for phone and lights, mosquito repellent cream, an electric mosquito repellent and 5 N95 face masks.  As for cycling tools I had one puncture-protected tube, 3 tube levers, a hand pump and a multi-tool. I had one spider mobile holder on the handlebar in addition to a frame bag that had the option for holding the mobile in case it rained, and rain it did. I also carried a camera tripod as I had planned to conduct my regular Yoga classes during the trip.

I had the tripod and the hand pump tied to the frame. The gross weight of the backpack, frame bag and panniers was 15 kg. Was it heavy? Yes, very, especially if you can’t park somewhere and have to carry for sightseeing. 

Bike Balancing:

I put the panniers on the rack and then put the backpack on the rack and tied it well. As I started to ride, I realized that the back of my cycling sandals was touching the pannier at every stroke. I carried on for some time and found this disturbing. I found a clean place to stop and adjusted the panniers further back on the rack. The bike was already rear-heavy and this adjustment made it more so. The front tyre had hardly any contact with the road. At one bend, at a steepish climb, there was sand and gravel on the side of the road, the front wheel lifted and I had a fall. Luckily it was not damaging and I washed at a nearby café. I rode very cautiously, mostly hunched forward, to the Bus Terminus.  Once I was in the room at Hampi, I repacked and loaded the backpack with light items only. I carried it on my back from then on. However, at this repacking, the RHS pannier became heavier than the left and it had a slight pull which was irritating and felt unsafe. I repacked again balancing the two panniers. As the short trip progressed, I was collecting more damp/wet clothes. I was washing the cycle shorts but they wouldn’t dry due to the rainy condition. I got drenched and the clothes won’t dry. So, the bags were getting heavier and heavier. This necessitated another repacking. Too many in such a short trip; but that is where my lack of experience had a great time, but I took revenge by learning at every step.

Handling Hot/Wet/Cold conditions:

I had reached Hampi before Sunrise. It was cool. By the time I was going to Hospet Railway Station, the Sun was well up but not strong. When I was coming back, it was Hot and the Sun was Strong. It was also very humid. The next day it started drizzling early and I could go out only at 7:30. Till 14:30 it was cloudy and comfortable, with a cool breeze, for me to explore the riverside path. As I went out again after lunch and a short rest, it suddenly started raining Cats and Dogs.I got fully drenched in the short 10 minutes that it took me to come back. I rode to the Tungabhadra Dam in a slight drizzle. The whole day was like that. I was covered in rain gear. I added the baseball hat under the helmet. I had to leave the bike at the main gate of the Dam. From there you could walk, or take a bus ride inside. Walking was not an option in the rain, with my backpack and the panniers. Hope you remember that I could not leave my luggage at the Parcel Office nor did I get the Retiring Room. So, my luggage was with me all the time.  Now, every time I got drenched, I had the urge to change to fresh clothes (this was also a sightseeing tour, remember?), but that was not possible. To give you an example, I was in my holiday clothing at Hampi when I got drenched. I was not carrying the rain gear. Even if I did, the time it would have taken me to put them on would have been enough to get totally drenched, so sudden and heavy was the rain. I came back and changed, but that set of clothes didn’t dry till the next morning when I had to leave. I packed them damp/wet.  One more interesting point. My rain gear consisted of a windcheater jacket from the UK and a rainproof bottom from Decathlon, India. The jacket was not rainproof. So, my jersey inside got wet during a few hours of being out. On the way back from the Tungabhadra Dam, I put on a warm jacket under the windcheater and I was very comfortable after that.

Hampi is a great place for a tourist if you are interested in what it has:

Hampi is History in Ruins. It is an example of one of the best indigenous Kingdoms of ancient India. The ruins are scattered over a large area. Tungabhadra River is an integral part of this set-up. It is best to study the place before you visit as that will give you the right context. I am lucky to have read a Bengali novel named ‘Tungrabhadrar Teere” (on the banks of the River Tungabhadra) by Saradindu Bandyopadhyay (also the author of the Byomkesh series) described how Hampi rulers established a friendly relationship with the Kalinga Kingdom by inviting a Kalinga Princess to marry a Hampi Prince. I also watched some videos by Sri Praveen Mohan on the Vittala Temple at Hampi. These made Hampi interesting enough for a visit. There is a book titled Hampi Vijaynagara by John M Fritz & George Michell that was shown to me by a local guide at a café on the day I was coming back. I plan to get it and read it. There are local books available as Tourist Guides, full of typos and other mistakes and did not impress me at all. That Hampi has a great place in history is well known and it has World Heritage Tag. The villagers have been moved to a nearby place christened New Hampi. The whole area, except a tiny bit known as the Janatha Plots, is devoid of habitation. Outside of the Bus Stand area, there is no food stall of any kind. It has been kept as natural as it can.

I walked the main path along the river, strewn with functioning and ruined remains of temples, remains of markets etc. for two and a half hours in the morning before I met another human being, a cattle herder. It is not like any other tourist destination. There are guides, tourists, and monkeys (no damage done by them) but no madness. And there are ruins. Then there is the other side of the river. It once had ‘Hippie Island’ which has now been closed due to illegal activities. It also has Temple on a mountain top and other places that I did not go to. I could cover about one-fourth to one-third in the one and half days that I was in Hampi. One requires at least three full days, without rain, and without Hot Sun, to cover most of the places, with some depth, some on foot and some on the bike. Photo Op may be done in a day and a half if one is travelling by car. But nothing will sink in.

7 Lessons Learnt:

1. Carrying a bike on a bus is iffy:

I presume that if a bus has roof carrier, one may load several bikes there but not sure how the bikes will tolerate the shocks and jerks. The night services by KSRTC do not have that facility. However, if and when it is allowed, it is inexpensive.

2. Carrying a bike on the train: 

It is possible, but it is not hop-on/hop-off. One has to go through the centuries-old railway system. The Officer was using three double-sided carbon papers and asked me to get a form photocopied, 4 times over, but used only one for my shipment. The officer informed me that the whole of the Hubli Division of the Indian Railways is Non-Computerised. Plus you have to note the fact that the Parcel offices have their own Working Hours. Always pack your cockpit with plastic. The loaders are likely to fiddle and make a mess. Pack the saddle as well since they will write the booking number on that.

3. Railway Retiring Room:

It is not a great option: (a) You can’t, as per the rules, take the bike to the RR; so you have to leave it outside in the parking area. I wouldn’t do it in any Indian Railway Station. (b) Unless the online booking is available for the station, you will never know if it is available till you arrive.

4. Food and drink: 

Pack carefully. Proper food may not be available once you leave the national and State Highways. If you are carrying snacks, outside your jersey, that will be required during the ride, these should be accessible without searching. I will distribute peanuts etc. in the two pockets of my Decathlon Double Frame Bag.

5. Bedding: 

Do you require it? If you are planning Hotel stays as the base for exploring an area, this may not be required. But exigencies like bus cancellation may put you in a tight spot. If at all required, plan light and all weather items like a yoga mat or even lighter foam floor cover and sleeping bag for relevant temperature; not cotton bed sheet and blanket as I did!

6. Hygiene & Clothing: 

Cycling Clothing: how much of a sweaty jersey/shorts are you ready to wear? Do you require one set for each day of your trip? Will you wash them or just powder them? How long is your trip? What are the facilities for washing and drying?

Night Time: Where will you do your wash/bath? Do you need to carry a hand towel? A bath towel? Soap? Shampoo? Cream? Toothbrush & cream? Medicines? Massage oil? 

Good sleep is most important, after water, for a multi-day trip. What do you need to carry for a great sleep? Do you sleep in the raw?

Sightseeing clothing: Do you want to roam around in your cycling dress among other holiday makers like carrying a flag that you are a cyclist? Or do you want to put on something else on top and merge with the tourist crowd? 

Underclothes: Do you need to carry them?

Socks: How many? What type? 

Shoes: Cycling shoes? With or without clips? Any other pair for walks or treks? Bedroom slippers? Hankies &/or tissues.

7. Packing: 

Bikepacking for dreamy cycling?, Get a balance between weight and necessities.  The weight distribution is important across the handlebar, frame, pannier and rider back. I have to plan for a proper handlebar bag system for my cruiser handlebars.  To save weight do not miss out on some items that may be required in an emergency (like a first aid kit, which I did not carry except three band-aid strips). Remove overkill, like the two power banks that I took; but be cautious and take at least one. It is possible that you will get stuck in a place without a dependable electricity supply. I did not get Airtel signal at Hampi. If I had a BSNL SIM, I could have taken my Yoga classes. If there is a possibility of rain, put in your rain gear last so that you can get it out fast. Of the two items i.e. jacket and pants, I will put one on the right pannier and the other on the left, both at the top. This way the balance will not get disturbed since you are using either both or none. I carried the tripod and the pump tied with rope to the top tube. But this is not great. I have to find better ways of carrying them, with Velcro straps probably, so that I can quickly take out the tripod for any good selfie or video.  Plan waterproofing everything depending upon the possibility of rain during your trip.

Bonus: 

In Hampi, a World Heritage Place, you can’t get 

(i)Airtel Signal: I couldn’t take my online Yoga classes, and 

(ii)Fresh fruits and vegetables: You can only get bananas as this is a banana and sugar cane country but nothing else. One has to travel a few kilometres to get there, and I couldn’t, as it rained heavily when I tried. I had to eat restaurant food that night.

Written By Kundan Sen

kksengupta@gmail.com, @kksengupta (twitter & Koo), bluediamondyoga (YouTube)